Everest Stream 2019 Inhaltsangabe & Details
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Their leadership and support had an obligation to turn them around if they were going to slowly or exhibiting signs of altitude sickness.
With the dead stealing the headlines, not to be lost is the joy and satisfaction felt by hundreds who celebrated a life long goal:.
Peter Wilson. We did it! At am on the 22nd of May, after 55 days and a 10 hour summit push, I was blessed enough to stand in a space that seems to have more to do with the cosmos than it does the earth.
The summit of Mt Everest. There was no watershed moment or fireworks as we passed onto the summit ridge, just bitter cold and sheer exhaustion.
Phones and gadgets lasted minutes as we tried to take summit pics. I picked up mild frost bite on my left hand and apparently froze my left co rnea slightly, all which will heal perfectly.
Perhaps this was just my small price to pay to realize a 15 year dream. Chad Gaston:. Hello from camp 2, we all made it down safely.
We all have our aches and pains. My toes and fingers will be fine in a few months no permanent damage just dead nerves.
I am still processing the last two days and need some time to clear the facts from hearse, and remember what I saw and felt. So I can tell the real story, of what happened on Everest May 23, There are so many emotions of joy, relief, sadness, disbelief and so on.
It will take some time to sort out my feelings. On the 21st May, at around 5. I have finally received a couple of photos from the Sherpas as my down-suit zip was frozen and I was unable to reach my phone to take any photos!
This has been the toughest challenge for me, both physically and mentally, especially after a very emotional split from Rich at ft, then continuing to climb through the night with Tengee and Namgya Sherpa.
Circling back to the Climbers to watch, these are the rules but note that all who summited deserve praise this season.
He graduated a few years ago with an Electrical Engineering degree. Not to be lost in this discussion were the many commercial teams who got their members safely to the summit and back home without deaths.
This last point is where the discussion needs to take place. Some of these climbers who died spent 10 or 12 hours to get to the summit and 4 to 6 hours to get back down near the South Col.
In other words, in some cases a 16, 18 or even 20 hour day. Simply put, the human body was not designed to withstand such a long period of intense exertion above meters.
The harsh reality is they should have had the personal responsibility, and experience, to turn themselves back or their support with them should have turned them back before they hit the point of no return, in my opinion.
It seems obvious to me that many, many of these deaths were avoidable simply by turning the member back when it became obvious they were too fatigued, taking too long or running low on oxygen.
In my opinion death and injury can be linked with attributes associated with low-cost climbing companies:. In an interview with the Himalayan Times , Malay Mukherjee, an Indian climber was quoted about low-cost guides:.
I asked Dawa about turning back clients who got in trouble. I wanted to know how Dr. Chin got in trouble and trailed the rest of a very large team.
Dawa told me:. And did you see the summit photo of Chin? Chin climbed together with other 30 climbers, during the summit push he was as in level of fitness like others climbers….
We cannot see future to stop anyone, can you give a point why I should stop him when he was climbing with team and his Sherpa reportedly in normal way!
Sir, we can never figure how personal climber is feeling and going through, if all seems ok then we go through normal climbing strategy. If not an act of dis-honor, its at the least poor tase and I expect better from them all.
Look in the mirror and not at your bank account …. If anyone looking to join an Everest team, just look at these teams and how the never acknowledge a death.
The past is the future. The Himalayan Times printed several quotes from Sherpas commenting on their customers including this one:.
They died due to their own stupidity and ego. If they are true mountaineers, they should listen to their body and should know when to turn back.
Everyone knows climbing Everest is a dangerous game. Indians now make up the largest group of permit holders, overtaking US citizens this year.
After being separated from the rest of his team in bad weather, he collapsed and died along with Narayan Singh, an officer in the Indian army, according to his tour operator.
Rizza Alee, an year-old from Indian-controlled Kashmir, said he was forced to abandon an attempt to climb Everest last week, after his sherpa, who was working for a Nepalese company, failed to carry enough oxygen for the summit.
The Himalayan Database show that from to , nine Indians have died on Nepal meter peaks. The primary reason included: exhaustion, disappearance and falls.
Exhaustion as a reason indicates inexperience in my view. Same for disappearance. Both suggest not turning back when a person should have.
Falls, are also a symptom of inexperience and perhaps poor support. The golden rule is to always be clipped into the safety line when its available.
It was published on May 24, in The Times India. Its well with a read but these were the highest for me and potential reason for the increase in deaths of Indian climbers:.
If you look at the bio-data of most Everest aspirants, they do a basic mountaineering course, a climb of Stok Kangri a m trekking peak in Ladakh maybe some other easy metre peak and think they are ready to climb Everest.
He even carries your oxygen cylinders, sets the rate of oxygen, tells you when to walk, when to stop, feeds you, changes your diaper, gets you into your sleeping bag, tells you what to wear, checks your harness and the rest of the routine when it comes to climbing.
What happens when your Sherpa falls into a crevasse, slips, looses his crampon or any of the other unforeseen things that happen on mountains.
There are plus documented climbing objectives in the Indian Himalaya. If mountaineering is about challenging yourself, enjoying the pristine views in the crisp mountain air and practicing the skills of art that excite you, then most of these people who go to die on Everest would be climbing these challenging and exciting objectives.
If you are lucky and get some backing from a politician you could even land yourself an award or a plot of land.
Never heard of that. How do people raise funds? They knock the doors of government buildings, get crowd-funded or get sponsored by a rich businessman.
Many people take loans, sell their property or make a Provident Fund withdrawal or even borrow from friends and relatives. Pune based Giripremi has developed fund-raising to an art where they collect cash door to door.
No one questions their capability, fitness or preparation. In any case, they get carried away by the glamour of Everest or the story of an underprivileged person taking up a formidable challenge.
That makes a great story. Little do the people who fund these ventures know that they are actually helping a suicide bid.
I once asked someone who had just climbed Everest what volume and weight of the oxygen cylinder she used was.
The people responsible for this irresponsible funding need to think and learn about the sport. The families and well-wishers encouraging ill-prepared mountaineers need to question their capabilities.
Politicians and government officials funding these ventures need to understand and get their credentials verified.
Instead, encourage them to climb mountains in India and encourage them to learn the craft and practice independent safe climbing rather than depending on a Sherpa to lead you to the top.
It is great to see balanced commentary coming from the top of the Indian mountaineering cadre.
All but one were in were in military and border police teams and we had rescued several from above camp 3, some who had been out 3 nights.
Their lack of discipline led to the unfortunate death of one of their Sherpa who was staying behind to try to help them when they should have come down.
One who was evacuated died on Kanchenjunga this season. Several suffered severe frostbite that required amputations.
I see this as a cultural issue. I believe all would have summitted safely had they been with a well organised team with good Sherpa support.
Instead the groups had little support and poor leadership as though they were trying to maximise expenditure by having so many members. By doing so they set themselves up to fail.
I have observed that some Indian climbers climb only for prestige and money and not because they love climbing. However, the mountains are a place of freedom or should be and my philosophy is that whatever your motivation, you have just as much right to be there as anyone else, as long as your actions do not endanger anyone else and you do not leave an unreasonable impact on the environment.
And I asked Indian Kuntal Joisher who summited this year from the Tibet side, adding to his Nepal side summit for his views on the Indian situation:.
Lucky for this climber that there are 6 Sherpas who assist with the rescue. The climber is finally somehow rescued all the way to Camp 2 where the climber is badly frost-bitten and then heli-evacuated to Kathmandu.
In my opinion, I would not call this a successful expedition at all. But what happens when this pro-cyclist so-called superfit person comes back to India — they are hailed a Hero.
A long whatsapp message was written in their honor and it was made out as if getting rescued and frostbitten was a good thing!
I was absolutely flabbergasted on reading the whatsapp message and in my mind I knew exactly what is wrong with the India mountaineering but more specifically the Everest scene.
They try for the summit on 16th May, get into serious trouble around Balcony area during their summit push, and is rescued by three Sherpas.
At South col the climber is advised to get down to Base camp safely, go home and come back and try again next year. The climber barely has any mountaineering experience and on top lacks serious fitness.
The climber gets to basecamp, pays money to a new Sherpa and gets ready to climb again. This time they go up during the next window, the climber is totally unfit but pushes through to the summit, gets into trouble and is rescued down to Camp 2 again with serious frostbite and heli-evacuated to Kathmandu.
The worse thing is this climber is now writing articles for big newspapers suggesting that Nepal should not give permits to inexperienced people.
It baffles my mind!!! There were close to Indians on the mountain this year both South and North.
Most of them had no or meter experience, were physically unfit, and were in no position to handle themselves in case of emergencies on the mountain.
No one wants to go through the long process of building mountaineering skills in wide variety of scenarios, or going on multiple Himalayan expeditions — say a few meter mountains, a couple of m mountains, and possibly an er like Cho Oyu or Manaslu.
Most of them have no clue about Oxygen equipment and what all can go wrong and how to deal with it. So many of them have just climbed either Kilimanjaro or Stok Kangri and have showed up to climb Everest, the very first serious peak of their life.
This year also the number of such climbers is quite high. I get s if not more messages throughout the year from people aspiring to climb Everest — and my advice to all of them is 3 fold:.
The Everest criticism machine seems focused on the crowds, but I think this is a multi-faceted problem that has been developing for years and has four equal areas for inspection.
The true and only gate keepers are the owners of the guide companies. They set the standard by which any applicant is evaluated.
If they have no standards, there will no requirements. This year, as we have see in years past, there were too many owners who simply took the money with no questions asked.
And when their customer died, they blamed their own customer. How is this correct on any level? They offer jobs to Sherpas from the Makalu, Rolwaling Valley, Makalu and other areas to support their customers.
Get references from objective people. I have harped on this point for years. Climbers must be self sufficient and exercise personal responsibility.
They must use good judgment so as not to put themselves in danger or their teammates or support. Full stop. Now, I fully recognize that everyone has to learn, but not on an meter mountain!
Learn on lower peaks with proper support. Gradually build up to larger, more technical peaks as your experience grows.
If you want to climb Everest, earn the right and not try to low-ball it. And this now applies to all meter peaks. If they are incapable of turning back a client in trouble, they should not be earning a living as a guide.
The Himalayan Times printed several quotes from Sherpas commenting on their customers. Indian climber Anjali Kulkarni died below the balcony area after she fell ill while heading to the summit, Gyaljen Sherpa, who guided the year-old climber, said.
Nihal died at Camp IV after sherpas rescued him from the balcony area. Das, who complained of weakness, died near the balcony area on the descent.
They measure their success solely on how much money they brought in from tourism, including mountain climbing and especially Everest.
They deny being complicit in any manner with any accidents or deaths and blame their customer. They have mastered the blame and misdirection game as we are already seeing this year about crowds.
To be clear, the call for Nepal to address this situation is like asking a drunk to give up their car keys at am. Then Nepal Ministers are drunk on the money from tourism and will do everything to minimize negative press and spin for the positive.
They are irresponsible compared to other countries with mountains that are used for tourism.
The pattern after a year like is for a government official to shout from the roof that the situation is unacceptable, people will be held accountable and things will change.
Sometime this summer, or perhaps early autumn, they will issue a press release stating all the changes and promising their peaks will be safer so come to Nepal!
Seven Summits Treks had a deadly season. They insist it was just a factor of how successful their business is. Tashi Sherpa , Chairman of Seven Summits Treks posted a series of suggested changes to climb Everest from Nepal but since has removed them plus the comments.
However this is what he posted directly from Facebook:. Those who are willing of sign up Everest Expedition should have an experience of at least 1 m peak in the world And 1 — m OR 2 — m Peak.
Every Expedition team should have full set of rescue equipment and communication equipment with expert guides. Expedition operator should provide at least 6 bottles of Oxygen Cylinder for members and 3 Oxygen Cylinder for each climbing Sherpa with one extra set of oxygen mask and regulator willing to attempt Everest.
The deposit amount shall not be refunded if any of the company did not follow the guideline, rules and regulation of DOT.
Note: If someone have any special projects example solo climbing, without supplementary oxygen , without Sherpa guide and high altitude service and any world record projects then these climbers should apply special qualifications of climbing history to be qualified.
Q: Also interested in your thoughts considering Seven Summit Treks had a number of incidents this year. What would you do differently next year?
We will and we always tried best to minimize all sorts of incidents, we are on it! I received no response and his post was removed.
Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow has long had a high standard for his clients. He switched Tibet several years ago fearing for the safety of his staff primarily due to the Khumbu Icefall instability.
He suggested these qualifitins for cites and guides:. Client to guide ratio of no more than Client to Sherpa ratio of no more than Experienced Sherpa: a majority of the Sherpa staff should have climbed to meters previously, attended the Khumbu Climbing School, and speak English or the primary language of your team.
Team size of no more than 12 clients. Small teams are more united and thus more likely to remain self-sufficient, self-contained, strong and safe: they are more agile logistically and can adapt rapidly to changing conditions and dynamics on the mountain.
At least one of these peaks must have been a major expedition peak e. Must have a minimum of 30 days in crampons on expeditions, in the lower ranges, and ice climbing.
Must have a minimum of 3 days of steep ice climbing and 3 days of outdoor rock climbing, including multi-pitch climbing. Must have excellent familiarity with big mountain rope systems including crevasse rescue, roped glacier travel, rappelling, belaying, and fixed rope technique.
Has a seasoned high-altitude doctor on their team, either on-staff or on-call or contracts for all members to receive treatment and consultation with the HRA Himalayan Rescue Association.
Provides radios walkie-talkies to all Sherpa and guides. Provides, at the minimum, five 4L bottles or equivalent of oxygen per client and guide and four 4L bottles per Sherpa.
Even oxygenless attempts should have this oxygen in reserve for emergencies. Only you, the client, can actually ensure this happens.
Nepali regulations do not work. I find it interesting that some of the largest, newest and oldest Western operators remain silent on the issues this year content to run their operation next year silently approving of what is happening.
If there are to be changes it will take a unified voices starting with the guides — old and new. I am proud of all those who summited in a difficult year.
Well done to each climber, their Sherpa and guides. Many stood on an meter summit fulfilling dreams and ambitions.
Some came home a bit beaten up by the ordeal but they knew that going in. Others, came home a few pounds lighter but feeling immense personal satisfaction.
Many of the Sherpa, especially those work for the Western companies came home with a lot of Rupees in their pockets.
And they know that their climber had the courage and strength to simply try. Yes, many were not ready and lacked sufficient support, but sometimes human ambition is deaf to advice.
The jet stream plays games. There is growing evidence that it is being impacted by climate change, especially with the warming oceans.
How this impacted Everest , would only be a guess as this jet behavior has been seen several times in the past few decades.
The crowds? So I distill all of this to this phrase my regular readers have seen many times: inexperienced climbers with unqualified guides.
I know, I know … many feel this is insulting and their ego and pride is hurt. Well, this year shined a flood light on what one or two or twenty or people can do to clog up the system.
And that is irresponsible. Next up is K2 starting in late June with summits expected in late July. We know that Seven Summtis Treks will have a huge team there using their Everest model of low cost and many Sherpas.
Madison Mountaineering will also be there again. Alan — I have been without connectivity, so am just now reading your wrap-up. It, along with your entire season coverage of the Himalayan peaks this spring has been nothing short of brilliant!
Thanks so much for all the time and effort you put into this. Looking forward to your upcoming K2 coverage! Take good care, Doug.
Allan Did you hear the story of Chris Daly, American citizen who died after a fall while trekking down from base camp? There is a mention to him at Wikipedia, list of fatalities on Mount Everest.
I will miss your posts which I read pre going to bed and helped me fantasize about my dream trip the Everest base camp trek. Hope you will be covering K2 this year!
Usually only climbers with an Everest climbing permit are included in the Everest numbers. Yes, working on K2 now. Alan thank you so much for the incredible insight and exciting coverage as usual.
I am sure I read in one of your early posts this season about an attempt on Everest in the Autumn window. Is that true and is it still happening?
Madison Mountaineering on the Nepal side this Autumn. The last Autumn Everest summit was in Thanks Alan, Great write up! Just a bit of info you seem to be missing.
Grand Himalaya treks, owned by Namgya Sherpa had 15 climbers in basecamp. We were three separate teams. In The Company of Guides my company had a total of Both guides summited as did 2 of 3 clients.
One of the two clients summited Lhotse as well. Guide and 5 climbers summited. There was a single Indian woman, who was very strong who summited with Namgya.
As well as two Indian: 1 guide and 1 client who climbed Lhotse. He has summited 15 times. He also summited 3 times this year.
Each of the three groups summited on a different day and Namgya went all three times. First on the 16th, then on the 21st and finally on the 23rd with me and my group.
This experience has given him a different perspective than most Sherpa, and it cultivated a good guide into a great guide.
His english is perfect, and he is very organized and safety oriented. This was my second year guiding Everest.
Both years I guided small teams people, on highly supported trips. You mentioned this in your write up, but from my perspective small teams are superior in many ways to the larger teams.
I personally believe, that as a guide, a personal relationship with your client is indispensable. This relationship can develop on the expedition, but is better to know people before hand…preferably from climbing.
Its way easier to turn someone around if they know and respect your decisions. I realize this would be extremely difficult to enforce and convince people of, but previous climbing experience with your Everest guide would solve many of these problems.
I am not one of the big operators on Everest, nor do I intend to make Everest a yearly trip. That said my guiding experience and training will measure up to any guide on the mountain.
My perspective, Everest guiding needs to adapt, If guides and guiding companies are held, and hold themselves to a higher standard the clients will follow!
And other members of our team have hiked down valley to Pheriche on their way to the village of Debuche for a few nights.
Our Sherpa team is heading up tonight to Camp 2 to start working on carrying loads to the South Col. We are just waiting for the winds to drop down up high on the mountain so we can get back to work for rope fixing towards the summit.
Given that most of the teams have already spent the required night on the Col, they are now back in CBC waiting for the ropes and a weather window.
Summit Climb reports in from holiday:. Last night we tried to eat everything on the menu at the local happening restaurant run by a Muslim family from the Gobi desert.
Some seriously spicy dishes came out, nothing went back. Topo Mena and Cory Richards are back at the Alpenglow base camp for a little recovery before their new route attempt.
Topo checked from Instagram:. After almost two weeks at m, having touched m meters a couple times and a bunch of wandering around the East Rongbuk glacier, now the winds are limiting our options to continue progressing with our acclimatization process, so instead of sitting around for the next few days we decided listen to the mountain and hike down to Base Camp, breath some thick air and come back in a couple days with the batteries renewed!!!
Primary reason is a lack of qualified climbers. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like this: Like Loading Leave a Comment. The Blog on alanarnette.
Everest The Jet Takes Over.